Corset Re-working

I’m pretty sure this corset will be too big to do anything with.

I want to reduce the waist a couple inches, and I believe it will act just like a corset shirt, with no reduction.

I don’t really want to add the eyelets to find out, because then it’s not as easy to take apart.

Restructuring process begins now.

Resized layer 1

I had to take it down to the size 6 and I have not been a pattern size 6 since I was probably in middle school. But I think it  is going to fit a bit better.

Corset gripes

So I’ve got the basic construction done with this corset – I went down and purchased my busk, which happened to be 30% off, which made it affordable. However, it’s too long! The front of my corset is 11 inches. The standard busk is 12. Of course the pattern doesn’t suggest a size. . . . . Trial and error.

I did find some busks at Farthingales online. They have an 11 inch and a 9 inch. The 11 inch comes to the very tip of the fabric, so I’m wondering if this is a good thing or not, probably not. The 9 inch seems too small – I wonder if it will work. I really need a 10! And I definitely don’t want to cut and file it down. I want to be able to re-use it if I need to. I will have to decide on this.

The other issue is that I can’t seem to cut my boning. I went to Freddys and purchased what appeared to be a heavy duty nipper, but am still unable to get it to cut. Maybe I should have stayed with the plastic boning. . . . . . So I will have to either get someone to cut it, or buy a larger plier.

So, I am stuck as it is, until I  order the right size busk, and get  a large enough plier to cut the boning. What I am worried about is the fit. It still seems too big, though I have sized it down, and I can’t know until I have all the pieces. I think I am perhaps too impatient. If I had everything I could be working! Bah!

1890s Costume Corset Mock-up

How did I get myself into this?! In fact, how do I get myself into anything? It’s kind of like a snowball effect. I purchase a bodice off the internet, then in order to actually fit the boddice, I have to have the right shape, so then I should probably make some kind of corset. Well, I’m a bit broke, so I will see what I’ve got in the scrap box – Oh Look! Some cotton duck, that should be stiff enough, and I actually have a pattern for a costume corset – looks simple enough . . . .

On to the fabric store for the boning, no I need metal boning, because it supports so much better, and then I need the casing, since it doesn’t come with it. Which means I’ll need nippers, a file and dipping rubber. And the busk, well that’s 40 bucks . .. . . . The gal at the counter just happened to be a costumer, and has made several corsets herself. She was telling me about her silk corset, and I thought –  I might have some of that dupioni left in the scrap box too, so now my corset has gained another layer.

Upon leaving, I turned and happened to see a binder FULL of Accurate Victorian era clothing patterns and I was so happy I thought I might pass out. . . seriously. It was like an epiphany – opening a door into a whole new world for me.

And guess what else? They sell quite a few of them at the store. I am still in a state of shock. I am no where near good enough to scale up patterns, let alone draft them, so this was an amazing find. . . . unfortunately, it adds to the snowball effect.

More costumes I want to make, including a walking skirt for my boddice, and an alternate waist and eventually a jacket of some kind. Do I need petticoats?  Probably. But if I get it all done by March (hah!) I might be able to go to this Victorian costuming get-together on the coast. .  . and I distinctly remember telling myself “Self, no more costume projects until after term is done.”

But I must say that this corset thing has been much more pleasurable than I would have ever expected. I’m learning something entirely new, and so far it has been very nice. We’ll see if it actually fits when all is said and done, right? That is the true test.

 
Boning sleeves are going on the inside of the corset. I chose not to add any lining. The cotton duck is actually pretty soft, and I will probably wear a layer underneath anyway.

I used left over scrap fabric from my previous bonnet project . . . .it’s a gray-green dupioni. I love the smell of hot silk fibers – yes I do hot iron my silk. Haven’t had any problems yet. . . Here’s a wrinkly version of the unfinished corset.

A New Find

Vintage Victorian Style Bodice

www.thethatchedcottage.etsy.com

I haven’t received this piece yet, as I just ordered it. I am a bit nervous about purchasing online, before I can actually lay hands on it, so we’ll see what kind of shape it is in. For the price, I think it might be worth the risk. I think it is one size larger than myself, but I might be able to adjust it a bit. Wish me luck!

I’m thinking of pairing this with a walking skirt of some kind, and am wondering what might look well. I don’t think I have seen much velvet, so that is probably out. I’ll have to see the fabric, but I am inclined toward a pinstripe of sorts, ideally black with gray. Maybe a velvet trim or detail of some kind.

And Life Resumes

Well, its time to hang my bonnet for a bit, since term will be starting up again soon. It promises to be a hectic one, so I doubt I will be starting or finishing any new projects for a while. I have yet to decide how to address my lack of formal dress with regards to the Winter Ball this year (I have been really looking forward to it). Especially my date, whom I have not made  formal coat for. I guess we can cross that bridge when we come to it.

I have to keep reminding myself that this blog is an ongoing project, hopefully spanning years of creativity – so I shouldn’t be disappointed that I have very few posts and projects compared to other very advanced costumers out on the web. I have to start somewhere, right?

The devil is in the details

So I bought a Regency waistcoat from a gal off of Etsy, because I’m disappointed with the attempt I’m currently making at a waistcoat of my own. Her product was not only more accurate, but far superior. Her top stitch detailing was phenomenal, which inspired me to give it a go on my own project.

Now if you want to be historically accurate, I assume this would not qualify (especially since they didn’t yet have the sewing machine), but if you want to make your garment really “pop”, then you’re considering the right techniques.

Barefoot Contessa (Ina) talks about the “secret ingredient” on her cooking show, that transforms an average dish into a phenomenal one. I think one of the secret engredients in garment making would be the finishing touches, like top stitching, or perhaps a good starch and iron; these can go a long way in making a poorly constructed garment presentable.

Take this photo, for example:

I do most of my sewing at night, when my daughter is asleep, and we don’t have the best lighting in the house, so I apologize for the poor quality. However, I think it is clear enough to make a point.

The left side has the top-stitching along the edges and on the faux pocket. The right side has nothing. The right side was my disappointing results, and now that the garment looks like the left side. Consequently,I am much more satisfied with it.

Fabric Covered Buttons

So the “Regency Costumer’s Elite” club says that authentic Regency waistcoats always sported fabric buttons, unless military. So, I decided to give it a go.

Actually, I found a kit at the local JoAnn’s store – where you cut your fabric, wrap it over the metal dome, snap on the back, and voila! A fabric covered button.

I’ve seen Regency specimens on museum websites, where it looks like the buttons are maybe wooden, with just fabric covering them? Kind of like a flat plastic button with a fabric covering. I haven’t a clue how they did that one. Looks difficult. I’ll stick to my easy version.

Regency Reproductions says that “buttons were made with either linen or cotton thread neatly covering brass wire rings or were covered with self-fabric.”

Want more about the history of a Regency Gentleman’s Dress – please see Jessamyn’s Regency Costume Companion, for a wealth of knowledge regarding this subject.

I found a video on utube demonstrating how to use a kit like this one – here’s the link.  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R3LDkEkNm2U

Blog in process: Life in process.

process (verb/noun)

Definition: method; series of actions to achieve result

Synonyms: action, advance, case, course, development, evolution, fashion, formation, growth, manner, means, measure, mechanism, mode, modus operandi, movement, operation, outgrowth, performance, practice, procedure, proceeding, progress, progression, red tape*, routine, rule, stage, step, suit, system, technique, transaction, trial, way, wise, working, channels, course of action, unfolding

Notes: a process is a set or series of actions directed to some end or a natural series of changes; a procedure is a series of actions conducted in a certain manner, an established way of doing something